 Sama (left) was always surrounded by curious boys and men, eager to ask her questions about America and her unfamiliar lifestyle.
There are Muslim men and Muslim women,
ViewZone Expedition 2001
" You are Yemeni, now!" the woman teased me, as she secured the veil over my face.
Many tour books will tell you that you do not need to cover your face while visiting Yemen. As a non-Muslim woman, you are not expected to adhere to the strict protocol of Islam. But if you would like to experience the real culture of Yemen, it is a mark of respect to wear the veil and people respond to it with resounding approval.
Hidden beauty
Wear it ! You will be pleasantly surprised how comfortable and useful of an accessory it can be in the heat and wind of the desert. If you chose not to don the veil, use a scarf or a hat to cover your hair. The custom of hiding women's faces and extremities from public view has often been attributed to the Quaran. I asked Nassar about this. He said this was not true. He said that the tradition dates back to Mohammed (PBUH), whose family adhered to this practice. Instead of being a cruel ritual, veils were originally worn by the most beautiful women -- and some handsome men as well -- lest their attractiveness cause envy or lust in others. The current tradition allegedly is maintained as a sort of compliment to the woman's appearance. Anyway, that's the rationale. Frankly, I liked wearing the veil. Henna : a fantastic icebreaker. Henna designs indicate where you have traveled and that you are open to the culture you are traveling through.
Get used to the men staring. Get used to the men not speaking directly to you. This is a cultural norm for this region of the world. If you assert your position as a participant in the conversation, politely and firmly, most men will modify the circle to include you.
Clothing should be worn that covers a body from ankles to wrists. Islam is quite strict on concealing a woman's form, and Ahmed had plenty of good natured stories about female tourists who had not dressed properly for the occasion. Recommended would be clothing made from a light weight dark colored material. My fair skin burned through the white shirt I wore as a suncover. The dark color hides the dust collected in a day roaming through ruins and exploring suqs. For clothing that can't be washed in the sink, most of the hotels we stayed in had laundry services that were inexpensive and speedy.
Don't bother with makeup. Have you ever seen what one hundred and ten degrees can do to lipstick?
Bring pocket-packets of tissues. Very handy everywhere.
Become comfortable relieving yourself without the benefit of a toilet bowl. More often than not, outside of the hotels, a trip to the bathroom will result in the use of only a hole and two footprints.
Bring a supply of napkins with you. The entire time I was in Yemen I didn't see a single box!
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