One of the most desirable destinations in this mountain region is the elevated town of Hajjarah. There is only one funduq in Hajjarah, The Hajjara Tourist Hotel, and this beautiful respite is located atop a high summit. The hotel has wonderful faire, about a dozen spacious rooms with amazing views, and a couple of lounges where patrons can either chew qat or listen to live traditional music. Don't be surprised if the dancers call you to join them. Yemeni dancing has simple steps. The kind of thing it takes a minute to pick up and a life time to master. After a refreshing cup of shai, we relaxed and watched the talented musicians and graceful dancers celebrate the start of the Yemeni weekend, which begins on Thursday night. One of the most well known of the Aden region's dancers [left] was performing during our stay. He had grace and stamina. The younger dancers watched his technique from the soft cushions lining the walls. Tradition is strong in Yemen, and the dancing is no exception. The region was extremely fertile. Sheep and goats grazed on the valley. Farmers [top] plowed their terraces behind oxen and children played in and around the irrigation pools. Hajjarah was a farm community full of friendly people, mountain ranges begging to be trekked across and bustling suqs. It was one of the few places in Yemen where we could have stayed put for a week.

Mountain living Even in the mountains, Islamic tradition segregated the sexes at an early age. In Yemen we saw mostly men. The women were working on the farm or in the home. But both sexes played outside in groups and were quick to notice our crew. "Where are you from?" was the first question the children asked. Their English was much better at 9 or 10 years old than one might expect. The children freely interact with visitors. Gary mesmerized a group of boys with the digital camera, showing them their own images on the small screen. A group of school children assembled and giggled before one of the boys suggested that they sing a song for us. They all agreed and, after a few false starts, they sang us a charming round. The boys exploded in peals of laughter when Gary played back the impromptu concert for the plucky performers. These boys were at the age where boys receive their jambia, or curved knife. A scaled down version of the adult jambia usually has a nail inserted to prevent the blade from being drawn from the decorative case. Most boys find ways of removing the pin and quickly learn how to hold the jambia while performing steps to the traditional jambia dances. Marriages Marriages are usually arranged by the boy's older sister in cooperation with the parents of the prospective wife. The bride lives with her husband and his family but remains connected to her family. Her brothers and father ensure that she is treated with respect and avenge any misconduct towards her. Marriages are usually consentual and family life appears calm as there is little room for infidelity or flirtation under Islamic law. The Ladies The women I met were as curious about my lifestyle as I was about theirs. On the shore at the Red sea, I met a young woman named Fatima. We greeted each other with a nod. There was no one on the beach. She lifted her veil and I lifted mine. We smiled at each other. I had a new friend. Fatima and I used an English/ Arabic dictionary to chat about our lives. We were able to look at pictures on the G4 of her hometown of Taiz. "Mamma, Poppa, henna!" she pointed to the screen, to a neighborhood close to the base of Jabal Sabre. I gave Fatima a bottle of burgundy colored nail polish as a token of our friendship. The next morning, just before we left, she gave me a red washing-cloth she had crocheted especially for me. It was the perfect thing to get the grime of the road off at the end of the day. We exchanged addresses and hugged good-bye. I felt honored that I could interact with this lovely Yemeni woman. I had many moments like this in Yemen and made many women friends. It was fascinating to learn first hand about the lives of women in an Islamic world.

The Fortress and Steppes of Hajjarah The harmony of Hajjarah's architecture was splendid. A protective fortress, the city was entered through a single entrance with a long, unobstructed stairway leading to the heavy wooden gate. This allowed the only approach to the city to be guarded and defended. Hardly any mountain town in Yemen has ever been overtaken with this system. Hajjarah was originally constructed as a safe house for dignitaries. Constructed from local sandstone and basalt, later decorated with white gypsum paint, the homes of Hajjarah were windowless on the bottom floors. The solid walls served as a protection against invasion. These lower floors were used for protecting livestock and for grain storage. The upper floors were reserved for the family living quarters. The main living room was typically situated on the top floor. These living rooms usually had many airy windows and were furnished with pillows and low couches. Yemeni homes were designed for comfort and furnished to provide maximum hospitality to friends, family and visitors. Hajjarah is the landscape one might expect to find in a fairy tale. These remote areas are still unknown to the Western world, and especially to American tourists. They are an ideal classroom for architecture, history, culture and art. Our guide, Ahmed, had correctly described Hajjarah as "breathtaking." Hajjarah is easily one of the most amazing places I have ever seen.