Traveling in Yemen was far easier and safer than almost anywhere in America. If there was any real danger, it was likely from imbibing too much delicious shai, a fundamental ritual celebrating the many new friendships we made. On certain remote stretches of highway -- and there were quite a few -- the government provided an armed escort. The pick-up full of soldiers, each with AK47 rifles, were always in a stand down mode. You could simply ignore them, or talk with them and share cigarettes during the pit stops. These were young men in their early 20's with few career opportunities. Like all youth, they were interested in music, current affairs and computers. They were nothing to worry about and we quickly got used to them. The highway system was good with many new routes and fresh asphalt. The roadway across the mountains was designed and constructed by Chinese engineers and is a lifeline to many remote communities. The secondary roads were also paved but often navigated like an obstacle course with sheep, dogs, chickens and pedestrians ignoring the oncoming traffic. Yemen drivers are polite. No one flashed the other driver or cursed him. The condition of non-commercial vehicles was quite bad. Poor brakes and missing lights were common. I won't even mention stray camels... Yemen had the friendliest people I have ever known. Although they were devoutly religious, they were not pious or judgmental. They genuinely like each other and believe in God. They invariably respected foreigners and were anxious to demonstrate their hospitality.

Most of the Southern routes in Yemen follow the ancient Frankincense Route. The caravanserai, or rest stops, are situated at intervals of a day's trek and usually had shelter, water and room to bed down dozens or hundreds of camels. Stone huts, constructed with no mortar [see above], still stand. These stone huts are used by travelers today to escape the hot sun.

This epic fragrance is actually the sap of a tree that grows on Socotra, a tropical island in the Arabian Sea. The sap hardens into drops (pictured) and is collected at the base of the tree. This form of tears has the strongest scent. Burnt on a hot charcoal to release the holy smoke, Almost all of the world's religions have used frankincense as part of their ceremonial rituals.

Qat is something you will want to experience in Yemen. Almost everyone chews these leaves. Frankly, I chewed all kinds of qualities and quantities during my stay in Yemen but never noticed the effect. I think it is an acquired taste. The stimulant effect was never able to stop my incessant search for a good and strong cup of coffee. The best coffee in the world is grown in Yemen -- in fact, coffee was discovered in the Yemen city of Al-Mohkha, but it is exported. The best an addict of caffeine can do is to gulp the sweet shai that is available everywhere. Mediocre coffee is available in the better hotels, but the food is less tasty and more dear.

To see Yemen you must do the tour. There's just too much to see any other way. This means you will be eating in little towns or wherever you happen to be at noon, when it's too darn hot to be in the car. The restaurants are usually crowded and the food is good. Don't worry about the hygiene or the freshness of the food. These restaurants have no refrigeration so almost everything was picked or killed just hours before you eat it. Stoves and ovens are fired with propane burners that sound like jet engines. The food is served up piping hot in minutes. It has been said, "Man does not live by bread alone," but you might be able to live on Yemeni bread. It's delicious and made from a variety of grains, rich in vitamins and not processed.

When you sit at a table in a Yemeni you are offered pieces of large, round, flat bread. The bread is always hot and freshly cooked, because it is cooked to order. As you sit down, the chef will cut and roll a piece of dough, slap it to the inside wall of the round oven, and then peel it off after only a few minutes. The result is a soft, flaky bread that is used as your plate in an otherwise utensil free environment. I preferred my bread with grilled chicken and vegetables, usually with a cold cola. Every meal finished with a cup of shai. The best way to plan a trip to this land is to contact a reputable tour company. Of course, we are partial to our own, Viewzone Tours. A good tour company will ask you how long you plan on staying in the country and will design a tour to accommodate your plans. Most people spend 2 weeks, a fortnight in Yemen - only to regret leaving too soon. Not to worry, if you cannot afford the time for a longer visit you can always return. The coolest time to visit Yemen is in August through January, but even our hot seasonin mid-May was enjoyable. Yemen is an excellent place to visit again and again..