Around the Ancient Capitol and Old Sana'a
©ViewZone Expedition 2001
Ahmed, our guide, came to collect us, from the Taj Sheba at nine o'clock. Snaking through the city and out into the country side, Abdul showed his prowess as a driver, letting no car nor goat get in front -- or stay in front -- of him! The open road was the only thing Abdul needed to see through his windshield.
Climbing the steps
Parking can be an adventure in itself. Once that was accomplished, we marched through the massive wooden gateway and up the worn stone steps to the open air courtyards and the climbing heights of the Palace.
The interior is a pale cream colored labyrinth of sitting rooms, kitchens, smoking rooms, bed rooms, porches, defensive look out points for the guards, and narrow steps and hallways. Everywhere, there are stained glass windows shedding their brilliant colors over the floors and walls.
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Everywhere, there are stained glass windows
Ahmed was a fountain of knowledge. He explained the design and function of the various kitchens and water wells. Some rooms were for men and others were for women. This stone porch was for washing laundry. Those drums, beating out a steady rhythm from far below in the courtyard, were keeping time for the dancers. Sitting against a stone wall, taking a break from the heat, Ahmed grinned.
"Where are you?" he asked.
" Someplace in Yemen!" we answered. I looked out of a narrow window at the golden canyon spread out beneath me and smiled.
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Beautiful families:
" Surrah, surrah! 'Take a picture, take a photo!"' a father smiled proudly, gathering his family around him for a portrait. Click. The Yemeni family unit is extraordinarily strong . Each house is often home to several generations, perhaps a dozen people, living together under one roof.
The spirit of co-operation found throughout Yemen begins in the home with the family. With the authority of Islam, everyone in the home has a place and takes on various responsibilities. In the West we have come to think of homogenous morals to be an affront to our freedom of expression; but in Yemen, this morality seems to have been perfected. In the many weeks that Zone's crew spent in Yemen we saw no physical violence.
Later, surrounded by grinning children in a sun filled room, we again saw the optimism and innocence reflected in the eyes of the Yemeni people. We decided that we were definitely pleased that we had ignored the paranoia and had been determined to explore this mystical Arabian land. Moving through the myriad of rooms contained inside the palace, we found as many warm and friendly smiles as we did stained-glass windows. |
| One of the clever bits of the palace was the refrigerators. One might almost mistake these cold storage facilities for delicate windows were it not for the meat hooks hanging inside of them! |
Another view...This year's Expedition 2001 in Yemen was organized and coordinated by ViewZone publisher Gary Vey [pictured left]. "I was concerned that this might be a dangerous place to bring our equipment and especially difficult for the only female in our crew. I knew very little about Islam and, as it turns out, what I did think I knew was wrong. Instead of posing a danger to women travelers, Islam and the Arab culture demands respect and prohibits rude or hateful acts or gestures. Add to that the prohibition on alcoholic drinks and the tranquillity of qat-chewing and you have a very mellow country." "In Yemen, you will find that the sexes do not socially mix. Most of our interaction was with men, who ran the markets, worked in the restaurants and inhabited the village centers. The men have a deep friendship which is devoid of the homophobia of the West. Hand holding among men is common, as well as hugging and kissing. Arabs are all brothers and I witnessed them sharing food, qat, and shai."
"Because most Westerners are unfamiliar with Yemen, it is imperative that you obtain the services of a good guide -- at least for your first visit. Unlike other countries with a central city, 5-star hotels and daily transportation to an archaeological site or point of interest, Yemen IS the historical site. Once you land in Sana'a you are there. It's then a matter of moving to the various regions and villages, each with its own unique attraction and traditions." Our trip ran smooth and we covered almost 5000 kilometers in some of the most remotely and sparsely inhabited areas. We drove across barren deserts, through busy markets and to heights of almost 10,000 meters above sea level. We ate goat and camel meat (just to say we tried everything!) and drank gallons of sweet shai (tea), while watching the living history and experiencing the ancient culture of one of the most preserved countries on Earth. What we filmed is beyond description. The entire adventure covers 6 weeks and will be presented in its entirety on ViewZone . A digital CD will also be available with selected scenes from over 40 hours of digital video that we shot on location. Will you be amazed? "Aywah!"
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"The women were usually at home or out in the fields tending to the sheep. Although the men in the crew were left to wonder at the age or temperament of the veiled women we did meet, Sky, the only female, was free to interact with them in private."
