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A frank discussion about armed guards, litter and the future of tourism in Yemen.
Sa'da is Yemen's northern most governate. It commands much respect because it is one the few governates that shares a border with Saudi Arabia. Sa'da is fiercely independent and was the last area to agree to the present republic. Many of the mountain tribes still do not recognize the present political structure and maintain their own staunch independence.
Like many northern residents of Yemen, the men of Sa'da are armed. The Russian Kalashnikov is popular. Attitudes towards foreigners are friendly but the area sees less tourism than other parts of Yemen. Sa'da is usually one of the last destinations on the grand tour of Yemen, seen just prior to returning to Sana'a. ViewZone found the area fascinating and located some of the oldest and most significant archaeological sites a few kilometers North of Sada'a, near the Saudi border.
Upon arrival we were ushered through the gates and into the at the impressive muinicipal building. Leaving our shoes on the plush carpet outside the door, we seated ourselves and accepted an offer of tea. Mr. Al-Amri stepped into the room before the tea arrived, with secreteries in tow.
Yahya Ali Al-Amri explained the history and background of the area, noting that the city had much to gain from an influx of tourism. He was asked about the military escorts with armed soldiers that have discouraged many tourists to visit Northern Yemen.
According to Yahya, the handful of kidnappings that have occurred in the past few years were the result of isolated tribes attempting to get the attention of the central Yemen government. These tribes are not used to the political process. When they became impatient for the completion of a new well or the approval of electric power to a remote region of their land, they kidnapped tourists. The tourists were always treated very well, as their honored guests, nevertheless they were held against their will. This action received the desired effect. The tribe was usually given assurances by a local shiek that their needs would be met and the tourists were released with gifts of silver jewelry. Some of these actions were even initiated by parties in support of the Saudi's border disputes with Yemen.
Gary Vey, ViewZone editor, asked Yahya Ali Al-Amri if he knew the current status of the armed escorts, and if there were any plans to stop their requirement in Sa'da.
Yahya reminded me that the armed guards were there to protect the tourists and that it was a gesture of concern for our wellbeing. He told me that several of the embassy officials in Sana'a had asked that these precautions be maintained; however, he assured me that these escorts were no longer needed and that they would be phased out within a few months.
Of course, current events and the news of another terrorist act around Yemen may cause these armed escorts to be extended. But the philosophy -- that of protection to visitors in Yemen -- is something that we agreed to acknowledge.
During our discussion, spoken through a translator, a man at the back of the room lit a small piece of incence in a traditional style clay incence burner and silently brought it beneath each of our noses. We fanned the smoke with our hand and commented on the delicious fragrance.
Governor Yahya Ali Al-Amri was a man with a great vision for Sa'da and for Yemen. He voiced his concern for the environment, citing the problem with plastic refuse.
"I wish that you were able to see my country, and especially Sa'da, about 20 years ago... There was no refuse and everything was natural. It was beautiful."
Plastic water bottles and colored qat bags litter the streets. Sa'da was one of the cleanest cities, but litter was a national problem. At the time, there were no recycling programs or public awareness campaigns to discourage litter. Governor Al-Amri said that he wanted to address these problems directly, improving the appearance and quality of life in his region. He welcomed our comments and thanked us for our interest in Sa'da.
Governor Al-Amri reminded us that Yemen was now our second country and our home away from home. "You will always be welcome in Yemen and especially in Sa'da." With such an intelligent and conscientious man holding the reins in Sa'da there can be no doubt that this region will make a prome location for tourists. It is rich in undeveloped archaeological sites and a rare gem of preserved architectural styles dating back more than a millennium.
We will be back.
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We woke up early to keep an appointment with the Governor of Sada'a, Yahya Ali Al-Amri. He had asked to meet with us to discuss the prospects for future tourism in his jurisdiction.
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